Wednesday, 26 October 2011

Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?

Well, we took our jeep to get it checked out today (only to one shop so far). The codes that came up were: P0355, P0357, and P0172. So we know it is reading rich. The others say (in my online research) Ignition coil G and E Primary/Secondary Circuit (no idea what that means). The mechanic told my husband that the #3 and #5 cylinders were bad and that we would have to get a new engine. Is this correct? Here is what we have already done within the last few months: replaced all spark plugs, replaced coil packs on #3 and #5, replaced #3, #5, #7 injectors, oil change, fuel injector in gas tank. I think that is all but there may be more. Anyway, I don't really want to have to get a new engine, or trade it. Is there any other possible fix that we could try? Someone suggested possibly the head gasket?? We really just can't do another car payment right now...this one isn't even paid off yet..ugh. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?* Fuel filter/pressure regulator (high pressure) Possible

* Fuel pump module (low output) Possible

* Engine mechanical problem Not likely

* TPS voltage change not smooth Not likely

* TPS voltage greater than 0.92 volts with throttle closed Not likely, but have your TPS checked at the dealership

* ECT sensor (out of calibration) Very possible, your engine coolant temperature sensor is in direct relation to your fuel mixture. It's on your engine block between the alternator and AC compressor. It's pretty easy to have checked.

* Fuel filter/pressure regulator (low pressure) Possible

* Fuel pump capacity (volume) out of specs Not likely

* MAP sensor (out of calibration) Possible.

Start by checking the ECT and MAP sensors. Next have the fuel pressure checked, followed by the TPS

355 and 357 are circuit codes for the #5 and #7 ignition coils. They have absolutely no bearing on anything but the electrical pulse being sent to the spark plugs. Those two codes, no matter what's setting them off, cannot mean you need a new motor. Start with the spark plugs and work your way back. If your GC is an older model (pre-2004 I think), use Champion Platinum truck plugs. Post-2004 use NGK-R platinum spark plugs. They are what's meant for the motor.
Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?
I would suggest checking into your down stream 02 sensors.

thats the code your throwing.

A good way to check for a bad 02 sensor is the simply swap them to the other side of the car then rescan the computer.

if the cel jumps from bank one to bank2 you know the sensor is bad. good luck.
Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?
I think your P0355 and 357 are you 5th and 7th spark plug. You may have them gapped wrong. Make sure you are not using platinum plugs.
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  • Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?

    I was changing the oil on my 04 scion xa. And when I was putting the new oil in it without a funnel (never again) my aim was apparently off and some of the oil dripped onto the injectors. I tried to absorb as much as i could with a cloth but it was such a tight squeeze that i didnt absorb much. Afterwards i unscrewed the fuel rail to get better access to the oil that had spilled and it disconnected from the third injector and gas also started leaking all over the place so i then decided not to remove the rail. When i tried removing the rail the injectors also lifted up and oil probably went into the ports. I dont know if the fuel rail connected back with the injector. I did tighten both bolts on the fuel rail but now my car at idle makes a hissing sound on and off, that i suspect is coming from that injector. Should i stop driving it? Is oil in there harmful? I think the sounds coming from that injector? The car starts and drives fine. But at idle it has that whishing/hissing sound every couple of second or so. Any help is greatly appreciated. I dont know how something as simple as an oil change went so wrong. Many thanks in advance.Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?put a fuel system cleaner in with your next tank of fuel

    once it has cleaned through, it should be fine, but you may notice a slight shouldn't be too harmful
    Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
    i don't see any problem with oil on or a little of it in the injector, where it went bad was when you took of the fuel rail i would take it to the dealer and have them take a look just tell them it started hissing and you don't know why if tit is still under warranty.

    Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?

    what should i be changing and in what mileage intervals?

    fuel pump? fuel injector? timing belt? shocks? etc?Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?Check your owners manual. Timing belt should be replaced somewhere around 70k. You should also do the water pump at that time. I have an Integra and basically did the

    factory recommended maintenance up until around 30k.

    I would change the air filter element at every other oil change.

    I changed plugs around 60k.

    Have the drive belts checked periodically.

    Integras are pretty sturdy and really don't need alot of maintenance other than oil/filter changes.

    Currently have 93k on it and have never had any major problems.

    Never had a problem with fuel pump, injectors or shocks.

    Had the timing belt, water pump and all drive belts changed

    at 77k.
    Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?
    air filter, brake inspection, tire rotation, inspect belts, hoses, change the coolant. Timing belt usually about 90K miles. Also fuel filter.

    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?

    I have a 1990 Nissan Sentra, and for nearly four months I've been dealing with this problem. I'll turn on my car and drive for about 5 minutes and suddenly my car will start to sputter. When I try to accelerate, my car doesn't, and it feels like it's running in neutral. It is a four-cylinder manual drive. My grandparents who gave me the car tell me it might be the fuel injector, but I've changed this to no avail. I also heard other solutions which I haven't implemented for I want to make sure others might agree with the solution. Also, it seems that my car is burning oil. I've heard this could be any number of problems like bad rings or even transmission. I don't have a clue. Lastly, will I personally be able to fix this myself with ease and how much will it cost? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?There are a number of possibilities, and they range from a cheap easy fix to possibly more than the car is worth. The first question would be how long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? If they are worn out, they may still create enough spark for the car to run in warm-up mode (most cars add extra gas for the first few minutes to help the engine run better until it has been able to warm up), but not afterward. Otherwise, it could be a failing fuel pump, which is inside the gas tank for most fuel injected cars and is a pain to change (you have to deal with rusty bolts and drop the gas tank to get at the pump). Another possibility is a malfunctioning sensor, because most cars don't use all the sensors while in the initial %26quot;warm up%26quot; mode. These are just a few possibilities I could think of without actually personally seeing what the car is doing. If the check engine light turns on when the car starts acting up, some auto parts stores will hook up a diagnostic computer for you and read the error codes stored in the computer, but not all of them do so call and ask. I hope this helps!
    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
    if the engine runs normally when the car is not moving then the best guess is the clutch, when is cold there is enough viscosity to move the car but when it reach the operating temperature then the rotors expanding and slipping
    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
    if it revs up when you give it gas its more than likly the clutch and if it spits and sputters and acts like its running out of gas its the fuel pump or fuel filter and depending on if the pump is in the gas tank it might not be worth replacing

    Hesitation on Acceleration?

    when i first start my truck its a slow start, when the engine is cold its like its gonna stall but then it picks up and idles fine, now if i press the gas it almost stalls so then i leave it for about a minute then press the gas and it will start accelerating now i can drive it, it has a loss of power and struggles up hills can only reach a maximum of 80km, im not sure what it is but these is what i have gotten done so far:

    Fuel Filter

    Fuel Pump

    Ignition coil ( engine code said coil #10)

    oil change

    fuel injector flush (also added a bottle to the gas)

    MAF sensor

    checked for leaks by mechanic and nothing!

    and nothing has fixed the problem, the van did sit for 1 year with no use and ran good the first day then the next day died!

    any help would be greatly appreciated! im going to change the spark plugs tomorrow to see if that could fix it!

    P0102 - mass or volume air flow a circuit low

    P0360- ignition coil j primary/ secondary circuit

    P1401- diff pres feedback egr circ high input

    P1130- lack of h02s11 switch ( fuel trim at limit)

    P1131- lack of h02s11 switch ( sens indicates lean)

    P1150- lack of h02s11 ( fuel trim at limit)

    P1151- lack of ho2s21 switch ( sens indicates lean)

    P0171- system too lean bank 1

    P0174 - system too lean bank 2Hesitation on Acceleration?it's a manual transmission? it's probally your clutch
    Hesitation on Acceleration?
    i can tell you that it is most likely the spark plugs as the gaps may be off or wrong or they could be full of **** or wet even, before you put the spark pugs in give the points a check using a feeler gauge and adjust it to the manufactures gap specs.

    hope this helps
    Hesitation on Acceleration?
    clogged fuel filter or pump is bad, bad egr rarly or almost bad o2 sensor
    code 10 in most codes is the computer is bad,
    Could be vacuum advance on distributor not working right or not at all. Running lean could be oxygen sensor bad, allowing for lean mixture. It should maintain 15 to 1 ratio, (15 air to 1 fuel). Oxy sensors read oxygen in exhaust and if too much gas (rich) they cut back on gas, or if not enough gas (lean) they add gas, so it is constantly adjusting, to maintain the 15 to 1 ratio. If they go bad, they will not give out any signal, or a rich signal or a lean signal, and then the computer will add or decrease gas according to the reading. It could be telling the computer to run lean.

    The throttle valve position switch tells the computer how far open the throttle valve is and so the computer adds gas. Again, this could be bad or needs adjusting, and this will send the wrong signal and computer will respond, giving wrong amount of gas.

    When cold, the coolant sensor tells the computer it is cold, and the computer keeps most other sensors from working, and this will then make the vehicle run %26quot;rich%26quot; to make the vehicle run when cold, since gas doesn't burn to well when cold. (More is needed). Once the temperature is warmed up, the coolant sensor tells the computer to put in the others and then the vehicle will run by those others, running lower rpm and maintaining 15 to 1 ratio. So a bad coolant sensor could cause the computer to keep the sensors 'In%26quot; when cold, and not give enough gas, so it stumbles. Like having a choke Open on a carburetor when it should be closed. Same effect.

    So you see, these are a few of the possibilities, and there are more.
    its a vacuum leak you cannot tell by looking at the hoses or gaskets a smoke machine has to be used you will be surprised how many vacuum leaks you have.thats the lean codes for po 102 make sure you have the right air filter for it the wrong air filter will not direct the airflow right and it will set this code po 1401 is the dpfe sensor and silicone hoses they always go out all the o2 codes will correct itself when the vacuum leaks are fixed po 360 if the coil has been replaced by a motorcraft coil dont use aftermarket coils the resistance is different if this is done then the plug is bad.You can use a simple 12 volt test light to check this. one side should have power all the time when the key ignition is on the other side should pulse ground.If all that is good then its the pcm.

    Is This a bad fuel pressure regulator?

    I have a 91 cavalier z24 with the 3.1 v6. I was having problems with it starting. It would start up then shut off, and then start right back up and run fine. I took it to the shop, and they changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the fuel injectors. It starts on the first start now and runs good, but every once in awhile I smell fuel, and when I am at highway speeds and let off the gas my car like hesitates like it is not getting enough fuel. It like jerks back and forth for a second. This only does it when slowing down. Does this sound like a bad fuel pressure regulator? How tough is it to change a fuel pressure regulator? ThanksIs This a bad fuel pressure regulator?Try a couple of taks of gas at a different filling station. Had a similar prob with my VW 1.6 and two tanks of decent fuel solved it.
    Is This a bad fuel pressure regulator?
    I had very similar problems with my 93 cavalier RS 3.1 L, V6. I found the fuel pressure regulator was leaking gas through the vaccum lines into the air intake, and into the map sensor flooding it with gas. I'm in the process of replace it now. What a pain in the rear.

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  • Could a spark plug cause a car to die?

    my friend has a 2001 Grand Am that dies when driving over 50 mph. He has changed the fuel pump and I believe the fuel injector. His engine light is on and computer tests show problems with the #3 spark plug. He seems to think that this was also changed before. Could this be his problem? or the spark plug wires?Could a spark plug cause a car to die?I'd say if the computer says that that is the problem... then First check to see if the plug is clean and making a good connection, and see what happends if you replace the plug with another and see what the computer says is wrong with it (replace #1 with #3 and see if the computer says it is still #3 or if #1 is not working.... Then you might be able to deduce what is wrong with it on the spark plug issue... As far as dying, I haven't heard of one spark plug causing a car to die, but I'm not a mechanic by trade, so I wouldn't put it past that it could need all spark plugs at optimum to work at that speed. I'd see what happends after the spark plug/ wires get replaced and see if that fixes the problem.
    Could a spark plug cause a car to die?
    ask your friend if he has set the gap on the spark plug properly and to also change out the plug wires and the distributor and cap. If there is not enough spark this Could cause the enigne to die, although a car can run with one plug failing. Has he also changed the in-line fuel filter???

    Let me know...
    Could a spark plug cause a car to die?
    Has he checked to electronic ignition. I had the same problem and when I changed it and replaced the wires and plugs... it went away. If it's a 6 cinlinder... the ignition is in the front of the engine. You will see the plug wires coming from it to the plugs. You might have up to 3 sets of ignitions. They are about $150.00 each. Good luck !