Wednesday 26 October 2011

Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?

Well, we took our jeep to get it checked out today (only to one shop so far). The codes that came up were: P0355, P0357, and P0172. So we know it is reading rich. The others say (in my online research) Ignition coil G and E Primary/Secondary Circuit (no idea what that means). The mechanic told my husband that the #3 and #5 cylinders were bad and that we would have to get a new engine. Is this correct? Here is what we have already done within the last few months: replaced all spark plugs, replaced coil packs on #3 and #5, replaced #3, #5, #7 injectors, oil change, fuel injector in gas tank. I think that is all but there may be more. Anyway, I don't really want to have to get a new engine, or trade it. Is there any other possible fix that we could try? Someone suggested possibly the head gasket?? We really just can't do another car payment right now...this one isn't even paid off yet..ugh. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?* Fuel filter/pressure regulator (high pressure) Possible

* Fuel pump module (low output) Possible

* Engine mechanical problem Not likely

* TPS voltage change not smooth Not likely

* TPS voltage greater than 0.92 volts with throttle closed Not likely, but have your TPS checked at the dealership

* ECT sensor (out of calibration) Very possible, your engine coolant temperature sensor is in direct relation to your fuel mixture. It's on your engine block between the alternator and AC compressor. It's pretty easy to have checked.

* Fuel filter/pressure regulator (low pressure) Possible

* Fuel pump capacity (volume) out of specs Not likely

* MAP sensor (out of calibration) Possible.

Start by checking the ECT and MAP sensors. Next have the fuel pressure checked, followed by the TPS

355 and 357 are circuit codes for the #5 and #7 ignition coils. They have absolutely no bearing on anything but the electrical pulse being sent to the spark plugs. Those two codes, no matter what's setting them off, cannot mean you need a new motor. Start with the spark plugs and work your way back. If your GC is an older model (pre-2004 I think), use Champion Platinum truck plugs. Post-2004 use NGK-R platinum spark plugs. They are what's meant for the motor.
Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?
I would suggest checking into your down stream 02 sensors.

thats the code your throwing.

A good way to check for a bad 02 sensor is the simply swap them to the other side of the car then rescan the computer.

if the cel jumps from bank one to bank2 you know the sensor is bad. good luck.
Another Jeep GC question (got the codes)...?
I think your P0355 and 357 are you 5th and 7th spark plug. You may have them gapped wrong. Make sure you are not using platinum plugs.
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  • Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?

    I was changing the oil on my 04 scion xa. And when I was putting the new oil in it without a funnel (never again) my aim was apparently off and some of the oil dripped onto the injectors. I tried to absorb as much as i could with a cloth but it was such a tight squeeze that i didnt absorb much. Afterwards i unscrewed the fuel rail to get better access to the oil that had spilled and it disconnected from the third injector and gas also started leaking all over the place so i then decided not to remove the rail. When i tried removing the rail the injectors also lifted up and oil probably went into the ports. I dont know if the fuel rail connected back with the injector. I did tighten both bolts on the fuel rail but now my car at idle makes a hissing sound on and off, that i suspect is coming from that injector. Should i stop driving it? Is oil in there harmful? I think the sounds coming from that injector? The car starts and drives fine. But at idle it has that whishing/hissing sound every couple of second or so. Any help is greatly appreciated. I dont know how something as simple as an oil change went so wrong. Many thanks in advance.Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?put a fuel system cleaner in with your next tank of fuel



    once it has cleaned through, it should be fine, but you may notice a slight stuttering...it shouldn't be too harmful
    Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
    i don't see any problem with oil on or a little of it in the injector, where it went bad was when you took of the fuel rail i would take it to the dealer and have them take a look just tell them it started hissing and you don't know why if tit is still under warranty.

    Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?

    what should i be changing and in what mileage intervals?



    fuel pump? fuel injector? timing belt? shocks? etc?Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?Check your owners manual. Timing belt should be replaced somewhere around 70k. You should also do the water pump at that time. I have an Integra and basically did the

    factory recommended maintenance up until around 30k.

    I would change the air filter element at every other oil change.

    I changed plugs around 60k.

    Have the drive belts checked periodically.

    Integras are pretty sturdy and really don't need alot of maintenance other than oil/filter changes.

    Currently have 93k on it and have never had any major problems.

    Never had a problem with fuel pump, injectors or shocks.

    Had the timing belt, water pump and all drive belts changed

    at 77k.
    Integra gsr 2001 - 50K miles - what maintenance should i be doing? (besides oil change) and in what intervals?
    air filter, brake inspection, tire rotation, inspect belts, hoses, change the coolant. Timing belt usually about 90K miles. Also fuel filter.

    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?

    I have a 1990 Nissan Sentra, and for nearly four months I've been dealing with this problem. I'll turn on my car and drive for about 5 minutes and suddenly my car will start to sputter. When I try to accelerate, my car doesn't, and it feels like it's running in neutral. It is a four-cylinder manual drive. My grandparents who gave me the car tell me it might be the fuel injector, but I've changed this to no avail. I also heard other solutions which I haven't implemented for I want to make sure others might agree with the solution. Also, it seems that my car is burning oil. I've heard this could be any number of problems like bad rings or even transmission. I don't have a clue. Lastly, will I personally be able to fix this myself with ease and how much will it cost? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?There are a number of possibilities, and they range from a cheap easy fix to possibly more than the car is worth. The first question would be how long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? If they are worn out, they may still create enough spark for the car to run in warm-up mode (most cars add extra gas for the first few minutes to help the engine run better until it has been able to warm up), but not afterward. Otherwise, it could be a failing fuel pump, which is inside the gas tank for most fuel injected cars and is a pain to change (you have to deal with rusty bolts and drop the gas tank to get at the pump). Another possibility is a malfunctioning sensor, because most cars don't use all the sensors while in the initial %26quot;warm up%26quot; mode. These are just a few possibilities I could think of without actually personally seeing what the car is doing. If the check engine light turns on when the car starts acting up, some auto parts stores will hook up a diagnostic computer for you and read the error codes stored in the computer, but not all of them do so call and ask. I hope this helps!
    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
    if the engine runs normally when the car is not moving then the best guess is the clutch, when is cold there is enough viscosity to move the car but when it reach the operating temperature then the rotors expanding and slipping
    Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
    if it revs up when you give it gas its more than likly the clutch and if it spits and sputters and acts like its running out of gas its the fuel pump or fuel filter and depending on if the pump is in the gas tank it might not be worth replacing

    Hesitation on Acceleration?

    when i first start my truck its a slow start, when the engine is cold its like its gonna stall but then it picks up and idles fine, now if i press the gas it almost stalls so then i leave it for about a minute then press the gas and it will start accelerating now i can drive it, it has a loss of power and struggles up hills can only reach a maximum of 80km, im not sure what it is but these is what i have gotten done so far:



    Fuel Filter

    Fuel Pump

    Ignition coil ( engine code said coil #10)

    oil change

    fuel injector flush (also added a bottle to the gas)

    MAF sensor

    checked for leaks by mechanic and nothing!



    and nothing has fixed the problem, the van did sit for 1 year with no use and ran good the first day then the next day died!



    any help would be greatly appreciated! im going to change the spark plugs tomorrow to see if that could fix it!



    P0102 - mass or volume air flow a circuit low

    P0360- ignition coil j primary/ secondary circuit

    P1401- diff pres feedback egr circ high input

    P1130- lack of h02s11 switch ( fuel trim at limit)

    P1131- lack of h02s11 switch ( sens indicates lean)

    P1150- lack of h02s11 ( fuel trim at limit)

    P1151- lack of ho2s21 switch ( sens indicates lean)

    P0171- system too lean bank 1

    P0174 - system too lean bank 2Hesitation on Acceleration?it's a manual transmission? it's probally your clutch
    Hesitation on Acceleration?
    i can tell you that it is most likely the spark plugs as the gaps may be off or wrong or they could be full of **** or wet even, before you put the spark pugs in give the points a check using a feeler gauge and adjust it to the manufactures gap specs.







    hope this helps
    Hesitation on Acceleration?
    clogged fuel filter or pump is bad, bad egr rarly or almost bad o2 sensor
    code 10 in most codes is the computer is bad,
    Could be vacuum advance on distributor not working right or not at all. Running lean could be oxygen sensor bad, allowing for lean mixture. It should maintain 15 to 1 ratio, (15 air to 1 fuel). Oxy sensors read oxygen in exhaust and if too much gas (rich) they cut back on gas, or if not enough gas (lean) they add gas, so it is constantly adjusting, to maintain the 15 to 1 ratio. If they go bad, they will not give out any signal, or a rich signal or a lean signal, and then the computer will add or decrease gas according to the reading. It could be telling the computer to run lean.



    The throttle valve position switch tells the computer how far open the throttle valve is and so the computer adds gas. Again, this could be bad or needs adjusting, and this will send the wrong signal and computer will respond, giving wrong amount of gas.



    When cold, the coolant sensor tells the computer it is cold, and the computer keeps most other sensors from working, and this will then make the vehicle run %26quot;rich%26quot; to make the vehicle run when cold, since gas doesn't burn to well when cold. (More is needed). Once the temperature is warmed up, the coolant sensor tells the computer to put in the others and then the vehicle will run by those others, running lower rpm and maintaining 15 to 1 ratio. So a bad coolant sensor could cause the computer to keep the sensors 'In%26quot; when cold, and not give enough gas, so it stumbles. Like having a choke Open on a carburetor when it should be closed. Same effect.



    So you see, these are a few of the possibilities, and there are more.
    its a vacuum leak you cannot tell by looking at the hoses or gaskets a smoke machine has to be used you will be surprised how many vacuum leaks you have.thats the lean codes for po 102 make sure you have the right air filter for it the wrong air filter will not direct the airflow right and it will set this code po 1401 is the dpfe sensor and silicone hoses they always go out all the o2 codes will correct itself when the vacuum leaks are fixed po 360 if the coil has been replaced by a motorcraft coil dont use aftermarket coils the resistance is different if this is done then the plug is bad.You can use a simple 12 volt test light to check this. one side should have power all the time when the key ignition is on the other side should pulse ground.If all that is good then its the pcm.

    Is This a bad fuel pressure regulator?

    I have a 91 cavalier z24 with the 3.1 v6. I was having problems with it starting. It would start up then shut off, and then start right back up and run fine. I took it to the shop, and they changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the fuel injectors. It starts on the first start now and runs good, but every once in awhile I smell fuel, and when I am at highway speeds and let off the gas my car like hesitates like it is not getting enough fuel. It like jerks back and forth for a second. This only does it when slowing down. Does this sound like a bad fuel pressure regulator? How tough is it to change a fuel pressure regulator? ThanksIs This a bad fuel pressure regulator?Try a couple of taks of gas at a different filling station. Had a similar prob with my VW 1.6 and two tanks of decent fuel solved it.
    Is This a bad fuel pressure regulator?
    I had very similar problems with my 93 cavalier RS 3.1 L, V6. I found the fuel pressure regulator was leaking gas through the vaccum lines into the air intake, and into the map sensor flooding it with gas. I'm in the process of replace it now. What a pain in the rear.

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  • Could a spark plug cause a car to die?

    my friend has a 2001 Grand Am that dies when driving over 50 mph. He has changed the fuel pump and I believe the fuel injector. His engine light is on and computer tests show problems with the #3 spark plug. He seems to think that this was also changed before. Could this be his problem? or the spark plug wires?Could a spark plug cause a car to die?I'd say if the computer says that that is the problem... then First check to see if the plug is clean and making a good connection, and see what happends if you replace the plug with another and see what the computer says is wrong with it (replace #1 with #3 and see if the computer says it is still #3 or if #1 is not working.... Then you might be able to deduce what is wrong with it on the spark plug issue... As far as dying, I haven't heard of one spark plug causing a car to die, but I'm not a mechanic by trade, so I wouldn't put it past that it could need all spark plugs at optimum to work at that speed. I'd see what happends after the spark plug/ wires get replaced and see if that fixes the problem.
    Could a spark plug cause a car to die?
    ask your friend if he has set the gap on the spark plug properly and to also change out the plug wires and the distributor and cap. If there is not enough spark this Could cause the enigne to die, although a car can run with one plug failing. Has he also changed the in-line fuel filter???



    Let me know...
    Could a spark plug cause a car to die?
    Has he checked to electronic ignition. I had the same problem and when I changed it and replaced the wires and plugs... it went away. If it's a 6 cinlinder... the ignition is in the front of the engine. You will see the plug wires coming from it to the plugs. You might have up to 3 sets of ignitions. They are about $150.00 each. Good luck !

    Why did my head gasket blow?

    Fuel injection diagphram broke on a 95 S-15 blazer (4.3L CPI motor) I was borrowing. I knew what had happened by the rough idle and huge black smoke plumes but after I changed the fuel injector (the spider) as gas was pooling in the manifold. After that it wouldn't start. When it finally did it was chucking white smoke until the radiator went dry. I am pretty sure the head gasket blew out some time during this whole fiasco but why/when? I have driven on bad Fuelies to get them home before (s10 blazer with the same 4.3 motor) but never had this happen. Did a cylinder fill with gas?Why did my head gasket blow?it blew because the engine overheated, they usually blow when the temp gauge is past 3/4, and sometimes the head warps too so make sure you check that too.
    Why did my head gasket blow?
    Head gaskets will blow for just about any reason. Could have ben a manufacturer defect... could have been the day of the week. The reason isnt important now. its blown if your oil looks like milkshake. Good luck with that 4.3
    Why did my head gasket blow?
    to mush racing the engine. wot.

    Is my fuel injectors bad?

    when i start up it runs very low, and if i don't press the pedal to give it some gas it'll shut off within ten seconds. But after it has time, about five min, it runs better and better until its running great. I have bad fuel miliage for a honda civic 1990 i think. I changed the fuel filter last month, air filter, spark plugs, put fuel injecter cleaner and i'm wondering what else is there?Is my fuel injectors bad?what i would do is check fuel pressure and for any engine codes.. if pressure is low check these things...

    fuel pump, fuel regulator, injectors and filter but u said u did that. also check pulse on the injector connectors see if the pulse is good. your vehicle may be running too lean... anything loose? spark plugs or anything? hear a tick of any kind? if its just occuring after tune up may have not installed correctly of anything... also disconnect the mass air flow if it has one and see if it runs fine after that. if it does replace it or clean it real good with carb cleaner. also idler check it and clean it. if its got a map sensor disconnect and clean that
    Is my fuel injectors bad?
    Have the fuel injectors professionally cleaned.
    Is my fuel injectors bad?
    for hondas, there are two things that affect the cold engine at startup. Idle air control valve (IACV) and the throttle body, there is a small hose that carries coolant to the throttle body that controls the %26quot;choke%26quot; automatically. I really think the IACV is dirty, but if you clean it and it still gives you problems, make sure those lines are there, and open the air bleed, if you have air trapped in your cooling system it can cause problems as well.
    The injectors may be dirty, but I've never encountered a running engine with injectors so dirty that a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank.



    The low idle when cold is very often a dirty throttle body and/or dirty idle air control (IAC) valve. The quick and dirty (he he) way of cleaning those is to warm up the engine with the filter assembly unfastened from the throttle body and then spray carburetor cleaner liberally in the intake as you work the throttle to keep it running. If that doesn't straighten it out you probably need to do it the right way - disassemble and swab on, wipe out carb cleaner.
    You might need to replace the injectors. Another choice would be to get the injectors cleaned by a professional with the right equipment.

    1989 Chevy Beretta fuel system question!!!?

    I have an 89 Beretta with a 2.8L V6. Although the car has 130K miles, the engine has less than 20K. It has sat for 3-4 years. I have now given it a complete tuneup (all fluids, plugs, wires, filters), changed the ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel lines, brake lines... you get the point. I can get the engine to start, but once I do the gas seems to flood out the engine. To the point that gas is now mixed in with the oil. I noticed this when the engine running and oil began overflowing from the dipstick. The car WILL run, but there is definitely a good amount of gas in the oil, that was not there before since I just changed the oil. My thought is fuel injector stuck open, a seal gone bad, or maybe the fuel pressure regulator gone bad. I am of course just guessing. The last thing I had done to it was exchanging the fuel pump. Maybe possible the fuel pump sending unit could have been damaged or maybe the fuel pump itself is malfunctioning and wont quit sending fuel? Any thoughts??????1989 Chevy Beretta fuel system question!!!?Fuel injector's bad stuck wide open and this is bad don't run this car long with this problem it will wash the cylinder's and it will take out your rings. this is symptomatic of bad or old gas. You could try a fuel injection serves but sounds like a lose lose situation. good luck.Oh ya I watched a 69 GTO Blow the valve covers Right Off and dented the guys pretty hood .The fuel pump diaphragm leaked fuel into the crank case and and Kaboom!!!
    1989 Chevy Beretta fuel system question!!!?
    sounds like a fuel pressure regulator, or even a possibly a blown intake or head (most likely intake) gasket that is allowing the fuel to mix with the oil
    1989 Chevy Beretta fuel system question!!!?
    your guesses are preety good,more than likely fuel injector stuck open,for your crankcase to have that much fuel to the point of overflowing out of the dipstick also pcm commanding injectors open or debris in the injectors,be careful have an extinguisher handy you could accidentally ignite that excess fuel

    Daewoo Matiz Engine light?

    had bit of trouble with my car, wasn't running well and engine light come on, now i have changed fuel injectors and engine running great again, but engine warning light is still on, now i'm wondering if i just need to take it to have it reset, or if i still have an engine problem, warninglight was blinking b4 i changed injectors, but now it is constantly on. any ideas?Daewoo Matiz Engine light?You could try disconnecting the battery and leaving it off for a good few hours to reset it - works with most
    Daewoo Matiz Engine light?
    You need to have the computer error codes read out. Write down the error code numbers. The technician will reset the check engine light and if it subsequently comes back on, you probably have the same error code faults that you wrote down.
    Daewoo Matiz Engine light?
    disconect the battery. for about an hour. then connect it back.
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  • 99 ranger bad on gas did tune up still the same really bad .need ideas on how to fix?

    change injectors fuel filter on 2.5 lt99 ranger bad on gas did tune up still the same really bad .need ideas on how to fix?try checking the air pressure in your tires, and clean the air filter.
    99 ranger bad on gas did tune up still the same really bad .need ideas on how to fix?
    a 4cyl is too small of an engine for a ranger you need a v6 for that heavy of a vehicle. but have the exhuast checked may be plugged up. could have brakes hanging, also have a diagnostic run on the computer advance auto does it for free and gives you a print out.
    99 ranger bad on gas did tune up still the same really bad .need ideas on how to fix?
    plugged fuel filter or clogged catalytic convertor.
    check the air pressure in the tires for a start. It may that you have a higher ratio rear end like a 3.73 to 1. Then it will be tough to improve a lot. the only other thing is to slow down and improve your driving habits. Think economy, before speed. Good luck.
    normally those trucks do pretty good on fuel,id have the computer scanned and see if anything else came up that might explain why its not getting good mileage,if the plugs are gaped right in it and all else is ok ,then it should do fairly good on fuel,have the scan done on it auto zone will do this for free,and then you might know more about it,right now it could be anything wrong with it,good luck hope this helps.
    Hate to tell you this, but those Ford Rangers ALWAYS got lousy gas mileage. :( It might be worth your while (not to mention the FORTUNE you'll save on gas)- if you trade that old gas guzzler in.

    My 1990 honda civic DX hatch has a fuel problem, i think?

    you see, i had a puttering problem and recently the car just stopped working all together, i check many things, changed the fuel pump, the spark plugs, the wires, the fuel filter, and nothing, so i then pulled the fuel injectors, and tested them, they are working just fine, but it seems that gas may not be getting into the motor, i came to this conclusion by means of spraying some carb cleaner down the throttle body, and the car starts for a second...any ideas, id love some help on this oneMy 1990 honda civic DX hatch has a fuel problem, i think?maybe the main fuel relay has failed, can you hear the pump run? if not try replacing the relay and it should start. unless it is a timing or ignition problem...?
    My 1990 honda civic DX hatch has a fuel problem, i think?
    I would check for spark and fuel.. If there's no spark, then it's your dist. If it have no fuel then it's your main fuel relay.. Since you already change the fuel pump.. Disconnect the fuel line where it connectto the throttle body and crank the motor. see if there's any fuel come out.. Good Luck..

    98 Camaro 3800 Fuel Delivery Problem...?

    Ok, I have just asked a couple of questions regarding Fuel Pressure regulator and a Fuel Pressure Gauge, but now I'm just gonna lay out the whole problem right now.....



    I'm having trouble with my fuel delivery system, it will run and drive for a while then it will die.



    Here's an example of what's happening, the first time it happened, I was driving and I stopped at a red light then when I accelerated it died, So I had it towed home then tried changing the fuel filter and then it ran fine for about 50 miles (1 week later) no problems it happens again at a red light it just died and won't kick over so I have it towed home again. hour or so later after sitting it starts up again now I'm afraid to drive it because I know it will happen again...what could be the problem??



    Injectors?

    Fuel Pressure regulator?

    Fuel Pump seems Fine because I can hear it come on when I turn the key.





    I also hooked up a Fuel Pressure Regulator to the port on the fuel line and got this reading: 42 PSI with engine off and the needle goes down is that leak some where???



    and about 45 PSI at idle.98 Camaro 3800 Fuel Delivery Problem...?First thing I would do, hook up an OBD2 scanner and check for codes. The second thing I would check is, fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors.
    98 Camaro 3800 Fuel Delivery Problem...?
    It could be a transmission problem. That's if it is a Standard.

    Chevy Impala 02 missfire on cylinder #3?

    MY Chevy Impala 02 missfire on cylinder #3... any ideas... have changed fuel injector and had a tune upChevy Impala 02 missfire on cylinder #3?You changed the plugs and wires and fuel injector so the only thing left is the coil or lack of compression. Check to be sure you set the gap right on the plug on cylinder because it may be set wrong. Hope I have been helpful.
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  • Malibu 02 backfire problems and fuel problems.?

    I asked this question before but I am revising it.

    I think my fuel injectors on the car are going bad as it starts poorly in cold weather, it has new spark plugs and plug wires, it has 90 premium fuel where manual calls for 87. Every now and then before it starts the car backfires I believe. Every now and then when it doesn't start when you turn the key on, you hear the fuel pump start the gas gauge goes up and then fuel pump shuts off as normal. If you try to start it after a few seconds of trying to start it the gas gauge drops to empty, the empty %26quot;idiot%26quot; light comes on, the ABS warning light comes on and the brake warning light comes on(no others). Sometimes at that point if you try a couple of times yet again you flood the engine but it does start. I know the engine floods because you smell burnt fuel when the car starts for a few seconds. Sometimes the only fix is to let it heat in the garage overnight and thaw out. Once I pushed it for 10 minutes in the garage and it started right away. It does this when temperatures are below 0-5F.

    I also sometimes smell fuel inside the car for no reason. Sometimes while idling, the car's check engine light comes on and the error code comes on with misfire in cylinder X or Y. It is never in a specific cylinder, always in one cylinder, no pairs, and sometimes, the code might come on and then the engine light goes off by itself. I mean you just sit in a parking lot and the check engine light comes on as the engine is going.

    I got quoted $285/injector+ 2 hours of labor to change all 6 injectors by a shop who said this is the likely problem. This was at a independent shop not at the dealership. The car's blue book is around 3-4000$. I would hate spending $2000+ on it just to discover it's actually something else.

    Any advice?Malibu 02 backfire problems and fuel problems.?This might sound too simple...but have you done a basic tune-up yet? I had a friend with a Malibu also. It was running rough, hard to start, poor acceleration. When I checked it it was 3 quarts low on oil, and the plugs were in bad need of replacement. After plugs, PCV valve, airfilter, fuel filter, and an oil change it ran fine. She probably shortened the engine's life a bit though.



    If it were my car and the plugs were fine, air filter and fuel filter are good, I'd run some fuel cleaner through it. I forget what it's called but it's made for water cantaminated fuel. It can also make a difference where you are getting your fuel. I've never liked any fuel from Costco, AM/PM / Arco, or most Unocal stations. And with your car I bet a qulaity 89 octane would do fine.



    Edit

    5 or 6 years just sounds too early to have leaking injectors too me. Unless they are really clogged from poor fuel.
    Malibu 02 backfire problems and fuel problems.?
    try starting the car with the gas pedal 3/4 to the floor, not all the way floored . if it starts better then have your engine coolant temp sensor looked at. if the temp sensor is bad it will think the car is colder than it is and add more fuel, opening the throttle will create the extra airflow needed.this condition will always make the car run rich unless you are driving full throttle all the time.

    What would I check if my fuel injectors arent getting power?

    I have a 87 chevy custom deluxe 20. My truck wont start. It does crank it is just not getting any gas. It will start up for a second if I put some starting fluid in there. I changed the fuel filter, It is getting gas to the throttle body, fuses are good. I checked it with a light and on both fuel injectors nothing happens when you try to start it, I checked both contacts on the injectors. What would my next step be? Please be specific. And in what order should I diagnose in? Thank you very much.



    Please only answer if you know what you are talking about.What would I check if my fuel injectors arent getting power?Does that truck have throttle body injection?. If it does than it could mean the the PCM is bad for the injectors the PCM will only control the two injectors on the throttle body. I would also try to listen for the fuel pump if you don't hear it when you turn the key than its bad. If its and electric pump and not a mechanical pump.
    What would I check if my fuel injectors arent getting power?
    find out if it has injector pules if not look for the ignition module
    What would I check if my fuel injectors arent getting power?
    i definitely know what i'm talking about. you're gonna want to use a test light and probe the injector power feed circuit with the test lamp connected to a good ground. turn the key on and you should have juice to the power wire. if the fuse and wiring is good, you will have an illuminated test lamp. after you've verified good power, hook a noid light up to the connector and have an assistant crank it over while you look at the noid light. it should flash rapidly as the assistant cranks it. if it does not, you have a ground issue going into the computer. if it does flash, you've got some bad injector(s) that aren't energizing as they should.

    What could cause my 92 honda accord to sputter when speeding up?

    it does it mainly from first to third gear. once i get up to a constant speed it runs normally. I've tried all the fuel injector cleaners and no change. also, my battery light comes on and off a lot but i didn't think that has anything to do with it. I think maybe my terminal is just wiggling loose a little which shouldn't cause the sputtering could it.What could cause my 92 honda accord to sputter when speeding up?A common cause of Honda sputtering, especially during acceleration, is oil in the spark plug tubes. Pull the wires off the plugs and see if oil drips off the plug boots. If so, clean the oil out and replace the seals under the valve cover gasket. The seals come with the valve cover gasket set. Don't over-torque the hold-down nuts - they only torque to 7 ft-lbs.
    What could cause my 92 honda accord to sputter when speeding up?
    Fuel pump or filter (if it has one) could be clogged

    Fuel filter replcaement?

    Hello all,

    I am having a 1990,BMW 525i.Sometimes My Bimmer needs two or three cranks for starting.I have cleaned the fuel injectors with STP complete fuel cleaner and my sparkplugs are good.Do i need to change the fuel filter also?pls adviceFuel filter replcaement?A leaking fuel injector can cause this problem or a bad check valve in the fuel pump or faulty fuel pressure regulator. As fuel leaks pass the nozzle of a fuel injector it releases the static or holding pressure of the fuel system. Since the fuel pump relay is not energized until the computer %26quot;sees%26quot; ignition spark the engine has to be cranked first and then the fuel pump can then fill the system with fuel and pressurize the fuel. A leaking injector will also foul the spark plug or at least cause it to run rich. You will probably experiance rough idling after a long crank period if this is the case. A faulty pressure regulator or check valve in the fuel pump or external fuel leak will only cause long cranking times. A fuel pressure gauge installed between the fuel filtert and the injector rail will indicate wether or not the system is operating at nominal pressures. Shut the car off and observe the gauge it should hold pressure. If the pressure bleeds down you have a leak.
    Fuel filter replcaement?
    i would its cheap and you can do it your self. just remember safety, relive fuel system pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable.



    let me know if you run into any problems
    Fuel filter replcaement?
    it may not do anything but it wont hurt anything either, its pretty cheap to do if you use pep boys. autozone. etc. for an after market filter
    Oil filter should be changed with every oil change. The trouble sounds more like the alternator is acting up. Have the alternator checked.

    Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?

    i still have a misfire on cylinder 3 after i changed the spark plugs and wires someone has told me it might be one of the fuel injectors will pouring fuel injector cleaner in the tank solve the problemWhere are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?Injector cleaner won't fix any problem. If you unplug an injector %26amp; she still runs the same, test or replace that injector. Or to save some $ , swap 2 %26amp; see what happens.
    Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
    in the fuel rail. it runs down each side of the engine. usually on the top side next to valve covers.
    Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
    no it will not help check and see if the plug wire on #3 is on tight that will cause a misfire.
    its in the fuel rail on that one ,i own a 95 s-10 and its the same thing you got basically ,all newer ones are on the fuel rail,in 95 they also made a vortec engine with a throttle body injection unit on it,i got one of those and it has the injectors in the throttle body,i thought i would add this because there was two different types of vortec engines used in those,good luck.
    The Vortec engine uses injectors connected to a fuel %26quot;spider%26quot; beneath the intake plenum. They are notorious for failure and drivability problems.

    This isn't something that the average do-it-yourselfer is going to be able to repair himself. I recommend that you locate a shop in town that specializes in fuel injection or take it to a shop that specializes in GM or the dealer.
    on the engine
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  • Chevy Astro Van Check Engine Light On - Air Idler Problem ???

    Need someone who really know a Chevy Astro Van (1993 4.3L 2WD Extended Passenger Van)

    This is How it happens.

    1. Fuel injector bad, change the Fuel injector.

    2. Map senor bad, Change new map senor.

    3. Air idle problem, Change Air idle sensor.

    4. Regulator bad, no pressure, Change the Fuel injector/regulator set again.

    5. Everything looks fine.

    6. Engine Run on idle for 10 mins till engine is hot, Check Engine light is on again. Computer Shows that it is the Air idle problem again.

    7. Change fuel line and Fuel pump.

    Is this because I did not clean the Air Throttle Body or the Air idle sensor is bad again, or something else.

    Computer said ok to drive, and it is ok to drive, but if i let the vehicle idle for 20 seconds, the check engine light will come on again with the same message.

    Can someone Help !!!!!Chevy Astro Van Check Engine Light On - Air Idler Problem ???Dear Astro Van-



    Well it looks like you had your work cut out for you.



    There is one detail that I really needed to know, and that was which 4.3L was in this Astro. The 8th VIN Digit will either be a %26quot;Z%26quot; or a %26quot;W%26quot; which indicates a Vortec 4.3L or the TBI Engine.



    OK Here we go.



    On the vans that are equipped with the %26quot;Z%26quot; motor they use a fuel injector setup that was a good idea, just poor execution.



    The injector system used a Timed Fuel Distributor with these black soda straws that went out to each cylinder within the intake manifold. Depending on the type, (Generation 1 or Generation 2) you would either be required to replace the entire fuel distrubutor system, or you could replace the individual injector that wad bad.



    These vans were also equipped with a TBI, (Throttle Body Injector). This looks like a modified Carbuetor with two large fuel injectors placed over a two barrel throttle plate and venturi body. If this is your system, then you need to check the base gasket on this TBI Unit. The base gaskets were notorious for becoming brittle and cracked . If you remove the air cleaner and open the throttle plates you may see a chunk of black hanging out down below the throttle plates. If you see this, this is the base gasket and it cracked and needs to be replaced.



    The Idle Air Control Solenoids were also an issue on these vans. This is a round part that will have a plug on it normally near the base of the TBI Unit. This will just require a quick replacement.



    The last thing that it might be on this van is the electronically controlled EGR Valve. This valve used to cause this van some trouble from time to time, and I know there was a warranty campaign on these parts. the valve will need to be replaced if this is the case.



    My advice to you is to take the van to your local Chevrolet Dealership and let them have a look at it. If there are any warranty campaigns that need to be done to the vehicle, they may be covered under warranty with little or no charge to you. But the Chevrolet Dealership will have to make that determination.



    Keep in mind that, yes you are paying a little more at the dealerships, but they are also working on that product all of the time and have the most up to date service information available to them.



    I work in a Chevrolet Dealership. Most of the time when customers come in with trouble with their Chevrolet Products, they have taken them to a private shop for issues such as the ones that you are experiencing. Normally when these vehicles leave the Dealership, they are not having problems anymore. Also Chevrolet backs up all of the work their technicians perform with a 12 month or 12,000 mile warranty on the work and the parts.



    It may cost you a few buck more, but I own two Chevrolet's and the piece of mind is worth the extra money I pay.



    I hope I helped you out! Good Luck!
    Chevy Astro Van Check Engine Light On - Air Idler Problem ???
    Since you stated this is a %26quot;W%26quot; engine, my guess is that it will be the base gasket on the TBI Unit, which will mean removal of this unit to replace the gasket. If this does nit solve the problem, then you have an ECM Issue, and only the dealer can repair it.

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    Chevy Astro Van Check Engine Light On - Air Idler Problem ???
    the idle air control code does not mean the sensor is bad for sure.



    you need to test the wireing harness.



    and a sludged up throttle body could also cause this code



    when you replaced it the first time was the passage clean?



    if the throttle body is clean you need to test the wire harness



    for 5 volt reverence and return signals from the sensor.



    Paul



    founder http://www.abmatch.com Free Online Dating Site

    I still dont know what to do with my 2000 nissan sentra?

    i tryed changing the spark plugs and the fuel injector cleaner. My car still surges when i hold the gas pedal steady. what should i do next?I still dont know what to do with my 2000 nissan sentra?Does your car feel like it's going to stall out on you when you apply steady pressure on the gas peddle?



    Is it an intermittent hesitation? ( does it always happen or does it come and go?)



    I have a '92 Acura Integra that does the same thing.

    I found out that it was a common thing for Integra's to do this.

    To fix it was to replace the throttle position sensor.

    It may be the same problem or may be not. See if there's any recalls on this matter at the Nissan dealer.
    I still dont know what to do with my 2000 nissan sentra?
    Replace throttle position sensor.
    I still dont know what to do with my 2000 nissan sentra?
    Trade it for a Toyota! I owned one Nissan and NEVER again! In my opinion, they should be used for boat anchors, they'd serve a better purpose! However, I agree with James B!
    Call NPR's %26quot;Cartalk%26quot; and ask Click %26amp; Clack. It's probably your fuel pump, though. I had a '92 with a recall on the fuel pump although I had no actual problems out of it.
    get the throttle body checked out. it sounds like a blockage if it is surging forward. without more info i can't say much more. also get the carburrettor checked out
    sounds like a censor, fuel filter, oxygen censor, this may help, if not try a mechanic, that's the best i can do sorry
    Check for vacuum hose leaks.The fuel pressure regulator could be defective.check pressure at fuel rail.Have you changed the fuel filter.try that first.Could be a weak fuel pump.

    86 buick century having fuel problems?

    I changed the relay and injector and the car started once shut it down now is doing the same thing,there is no fuel coming out of injector,but I unscrewed the top of where injector is coming out and there is fuel in there but not spraying out injector,please help.2.5 engine86 buick century having fuel problems?Check the Injector fuse. Should be marked on the fuse panel cover, which one it is. If that's OK, you can buy a %26quot;noid light%26quot; pretty cheap nowadays, to see if it's getting a proper signal to fire it. Not sure if the discount stores carry them, but most jobber stores should. Just plug it into the connector that usually goes on the injector, and see whether or not it flashes when you crank the motor.
    86 buick century having fuel problems?
    even tho you may be getting gas their, sound like a bab pump, are a fitter bad
    86 buick century having fuel problems?
    bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter start by changing the fuel filter. there is on in line under the car on the passenger side of the car, if that doesn't help then you could need a fuel pump.
    you need a new sending unit%26quot;fuel pump%26quot;

    How to Replace Fuel Injectors?

    I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix SE, and it appears that one of my injectors is bad. I want to replace it, and I have the Haynes manual, but it doesn't seem to match up with my model.



    As far as I can tell, the fuel rail and injectors are underneath the intake manifold. Does anybody have any experience replacing the fuel injectors on a grand prix? Do i just need to remove the intake manifold?



    Also, are the intake manifold gaskets reusable? or will I need to replace it when I change the injectors.



    Thanks for your help.How to Replace Fuel Injectors?Yes you have to remove the plenum. (upper intake). After you get that out of the way theres three 10mm bolts that have to be removed in order to lift the fuel rail. Do yourself a favor and don't disconnect the fuel lines from the rail. It's work you don't have to do.theres also a small clip that holds each injector in. as for the gaskets. you can only if your able to get the plenum off without destroying them. Also keep in mind that those engines can trap air in the cooling system. Be sure to bleed it properly.
    How to Replace Fuel Injectors?
    I have the 3.1 engine and my codes are telling me that my #2 injector is stuck open. the car is also running very rich. I don't see how they would be accessible without removing the intake manifold. Anyone up for giving me some step by step directions? Thanks..

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    How to Replace Fuel Injectors?
    it probably has the 3800 engine so you don,t have to pull the intake. all you have to do is let the fuel pressure off, unhook the fuel line to the fuel rail, unhook the battery, take the harness off all the injectors, take the fuel rail off and pull the bad injector out, oil up the new injector 0-ring, install the injector, and put it all back together but after you get done don,t forget to bleed the air out at the fuel rail.

    Jeep 4.0l stroker deck height?

    I'm building my first 4.0-4.7 stroker engine for my 92 wrangler. I was wondering about the low piston height in the bore with stock pistons. does it cause any probs. Emisions don't matter where i live. The only way i see to resolve this is custom pistons and cutting the block way down. seems like a waste of money if i already have the ~9.5-1 compression with the stock pistons and stock deck of the block. Other than changing fuel injectors do i need to worry about any other fuel management probs? I'm a gm tech but i don't know alot about the old chrysler fuel injection, will it just adapt from the o2 sensor like the old gm tbi systems, as they seem to be pretty forgiving to internal modification. P.S. I'm at about 4500ft, hot and dry as hell UT. We also see neg temps in the winter. Any advise from some one who has one of these would be nice.Jeep 4.0l stroker deck height?While I can't give you a great answer on this, see if the www.jpmagazine.com archieve has any information on the company converting 4.0l to 4.6l strokers. The magazine wrote an article about the company about a year and a half ago.



    I don't remember how much details they gave in the article, and I'm pretty sure that the company won't give away too much information, but there might be enough to be useful to you.
    Jeep 4.0l stroker deck height?
    Call Summit racing or 4wd hardware, and they have the stats on this motor.
    Jeep 4.0l stroker deck height?
    I could write a big long response here but the simple fact is that this web site should be able to answer your question MUCH better than I ever could. If it doesn't I'll bet you can contact guy and pick his brain - he seems pretty knowledgeable.



    http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.鈥?/a>
    Ok,, below will answer all your questions and MUCH more. I have built the 4.7 liter. You might want to recalculate your compression ratio. Original is 8.8 to one and you just added a 1/2%26quot; stroker crank..I get a little over 10 to one and that is high. I have special pistons to bring it down to 9 to one. You should be only around 0.10 low with stock pistons on deck height. Yes you need to change the injectors are you now have a 20% larger engines, but the information I furnished below will tell you cheap way to get from Junk Ford 5 liter or part numbers.

    The computer will have no problems, but I did build the adjustable MAP sensor to fine tune the system.

    Personal gains were 51% more Rear Wheel HP and 61% torque. WARNING, your Dana 35 WILL NOT STAND this thing. You have around six months before the spiders to and take out the rear end.

    Take it from me,,do the Ford 8.8 conversion...also on the net..Just finished mine and got disc as a side benefit.

    Good Luck

    PS BIG WARNING. IF you go with Crane cams..there are eight documented lob failures. Highest mileage is 33,000 and mine went at 32,000 miles. Other manufacturers have also failed.Suggest Crower cams and the special grooved lifters for more cam lubrication!!!!!! Most people are blaming the new low zinc oils that are now standard. OK for roller cams, but not tappet. I am now using Rotella Diesel oils, which still have the zinc.
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  • Fuel injection problem on 1990 Chevy pickup.?

    When driving the vehicle jerks and sounds like it is not getting the right amount of fuel to the injector. Also, stalls alot after starting cold. I changed the 02 sensor but no change. The fuel system is aTBI.Fuel injection problem on 1990 Chevy pickup.?Probably a worn out fuel pump and/or plugged fuel filter.

    Low fuel pressure.



    You should get 12-13 psi at the inlet side of the fuel filter. (minimum)
    Fuel injection problem on 1990 Chevy pickup.?
    Its a Chevy.
    Fuel injection problem on 1990 Chevy pickup.?
    It could be many things.You already changed a hard one(o2 sensors are a bugger)Check all the vacuum lines for cracks.If they are cracked,replace them.You can also check your pcv valve,.I would clean the tbi and egr with carb cleaner or seafoam.Put a half can of seafoam in your gas to clean injectors.Your temp sensors could be bad also.You could also change fuel filter.

    Like I said,it could be many things that cause one problem.Did you unplug your battery to reset the computer so it reads the new o2 readings.
    Another thing I'd do if it's stalling and jerking is replace the throttle body gasket, there's really no way to tell if it's bad or not by looking at it. Mine looked fine and I replaced it, it solved my sputtering acceleration problem after a cold start.
    had the same problem on my 94 it was the throttle position sensor that was making it do that it cost about 30.00 dollars for a new one and took about 15 mins. to change it out

    Where is the fuel pump and the fuse or relay on a 95 eclipse gs?

    The computer was just changed and the fuel pump isn't sending any gas to the injectors. I can't find the fuse, relay or the damn pump on this car.Where is the fuel pump and the fuse or relay on a 95 eclipse gs?The fuel pump is an %26quot;in tank%26quot; part. If it's faulty, it's unservicable, you need to replace it.

    You don't need to remove the tank to get the pump out, but make sure there isn't too much fuel in the car when you do this.

    relay %26amp; fuse are in the black box under the hood, on the left hand side (looking from the front) of the car.

    My '95 was doing the same thing. Are you sure this is the problem? I foolishly replaced those parts, only to find that the probelm wasnt corrected.

    A quick $15 visit to an Auto Elec for on the spot electrical self diagnosis pointed me in the right direction.
    Where is the fuel pump and the fuse or relay on a 95 eclipse gs?
    pump is in the gas tank and the fuse is under the hood there may be a cut off switch in the trunk
    Where is the fuel pump and the fuse or relay on a 95 eclipse gs?
    it is in the fuse boxs under the hood marked feul pump relay

    Why my Chevy truck won't start? Seems like its not getting fuel.?

    1998 Chevy truck can't get it started now. Was able to get it started after using fuel injector cleaner in the past. Then it runs really bad.

    Now it won't start at all. Had spark plugs changed. Still won't start. Trying to start it has ran my battery down.

    Could it be the fuel pump, starter or timing change?Why my Chevy truck won't start? Seems like its not getting fuel.?i own a repair shop,and you said even when it did start it run really bad,id say there's a good chance it may be the timing chain,all gm products seem to need new ones around 100 k on them,they was made of a soft metal and don't last as good as they should have ,id check and see if its getting gas and fire,and if it is check to see where the rotor button is pointing to,and line the timing ,marks up on it ,this will tell you if it has jumped or not,but be sure and check for fire and fuel before you do anything else with it,,good luck,i hope this help,s.
    Why my Chevy truck won't start? Seems like its not getting fuel.?
    maybe motor problems
    Why my Chevy truck won't start? Seems like its not getting fuel.?
    need engine size in order to help you. every Chevy engines is calibrate differently
    Like the ads say 'it's a Chevy' CPU probably
    Take off the air cleaner, and spray starting fluid in the engine while a friend is trying to start it.
    It is possible that there is a sensor or 2 that has gone out. You will need to hook it to the diagnostic machine, and it will tell you which one (or ones) that are bad. Most places will hook it up for a few dollars or nothing. But the same thing happened on a van I had, and I ended up buying 2 sensors. I was able to install them myself though. If you get 2 at once, do not mix them up. Is your check engine light on or been blinking?
    It might be your starter or u might have a problem with ur fuel system. A block in the fuel line.
    Have a buddy unscrew the gas cap and listen carefully into the fuel tank. While he's doing that, you turn the key to the %26quot;on%26quot; position (just before starting it). You should hear about 2 seconds of %26quot;whrrrrrrrrr%26quot;, if not the fuel pump is bad or not getting power. If you hear that sound, go to Autozone and ask for a %26quot;noid light%26quot;, they're cheap. Unplug one of the fuel injectors and plug the light into it then try to start the car. The light should flash, indicating the injectors are getting power.



    add: That should fairly well eliminate the fuel system. Just for safe measure you may try replacing the fuel filter but it would have to be pretty dang bad to completely stop it from starting.



    If all of that checks out, pull one of the plug wires off the spark plug. Carefully rest it very close to something metal, but NOT A SENSOR! While trying to start the car you should see or hear a spark. It may take some adjusting of the plug wire since it can be sensitive to distance. Some deep plugs may require putting a screwdriver into it and rest the metal shaft of the screwdriver NEAR (not on) something metal.
    The fuel pump is prabobly %26quot;hot wired%26quot; to the battery.
    IDK haha but I %26lt;3 CHEVYS!!
    Fuel injectors must be removed and cleaned, or replaced with new ones.
    turn the ignition on. you should be able to hear the fuel pump running. if your not sure if its running you can pop the hood and find the steel fuel line behind the throttle body. There is a schrader valve on it. push the needle in and see if fuel squirts out. keep a rag handy, its probably carrying about 55 psi. your starter is fine, and your timing is computer controlled so its probably okay too. chevy fuel systems suck in those year trucks. i've got a 97, and ive been through my fuel system more than once. if you run into more trouble email me directly, i'll try to help.
    Fuel pump: Yes; Timing Chain: Yes; Starter: If it turns over then no if all it will do is click then yes; it could also be a clogged fuel filter, weak injectors, timing could be off at the distributor; with so little info it would be hard to tell. Does it turn over? Have you checked to be sure fuel is getting to the injectors? When this trouble started had the truck backfired? Was it missing? Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
    Some cheap trys--



    One- change fuel filter located on frame.



    Two-open hood at night and crank motor over, check for arcing from plug wires. If you see sparks, wire set is bad.



    Three-buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual at parts house and use it to check for any trouble codes from on board diagnostic computer.Very simple to do.



    Remember- motor needs fuel, air and spark to run. Air is kinda a given, so check fuel and spark.
    FUEL PUMP

    2002 mustang V6: Only getting 160 miles per full tank. What can I do to improve gas milage?

    Have already changed spark pug wires %26amp; plugs. Changed out ignition coil pack. Had fuel injectors cleaned %26amp; Fuel filter changed? Replaced muffler as well.2002 mustang V6: Only getting 160 miles per full tank. What can I do to improve gas milage?use valvoline oil. its expensive but can save you on gas mileage guaranteed.
    2002 mustang V6: Only getting 160 miles per full tank. What can I do to improve gas milage?
    yOU NEED TO SEE HOW BIG THE GAS TANK IS. YOU MAY HAVE A SMALL GAS TANK. MY 1995 T-BIRD ONLY HAS A12 OR 13 GALLON GAS TANK, BUT I GET OVER 20 MILES A GALLON WITH IT, UPWARDS OF 240 MILES PER TANK.
    2002 mustang V6: Only getting 160 miles per full tank. What can I do to improve gas milage?
    you can put a k and n air filter on it that will help but sounds to me like you have a problemb maybe in your timeing

    1995 Olds Aurora fuel system problem?

    Had a problem starting. my mechanic diagnosed 2 bad fuel injectors which I replaced. Had the fuel system cleaned, and fuel %26amp; air filter changed. Runs good, with no skipping, but won't idle for more than two minutes without stalling. Will run fine on highway, but when I come to a stop, it will lose power and stall. Any ideas?1995 Olds Aurora fuel system problem?james could be right.it could be the idle air control,and also it could be the throttle position sensor acting up.i have a olds and mine did that until i changed them.i tell you,these cars today,you almost have to be a professor to figure them out sometimes.
    1995 Olds Aurora fuel system problem?
    Sounds like idle control valve or throttle position sensor.
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  • Fuel Pump question?

    Hello, I have a 92 buick regal that I cant seem to get to idle correctly. It has a roughness/shake to it and im getting grayish smoke out the exhaust when its revved up past 4000rpm at idle. but if I rev it up it shakes as it revs thru the rpm's.. but if you gently increase the rpm's it does it alot less. I have changed the computer,ignition module,fuel injectors,fuel filter, O2 sensor,intake manifold gaskets, replaced ALL vac lines, MAF sensor, Temp sensor,IAC valve, spark plugs and wires, given it fuel injector cleaner *sea foam*, TPS voltage checked, crank sensor, Ran a compression check and all come out even at 160.. I can only think fuel pump..but would a fuel pump give me these symptoms? I mean the engine runs,holds a steady idle and doesnt die but its shaking, rough idling and giving me smoke of a Rich condition.. but if the pump was bad wouldnt it be running lean..not rich?

    Any advice would be appreciated

    Thank youFuel Pump question?My guess is coil packs.

    It sounds like its a mis-fire, not a fuel issue.

    If you can rev it that high, you are getting enough fuel.

    Check the coil pack.
    Fuel Pump question?
    have it pressure tested and replace fuel filter and look at pressure regulator
    Fuel Pump question?
    one of the ignition coils may be weak..
    To me, it sounds like you have a timing issue. Like your distributor may have come loose and turned. Check your timing before spending money you don't have to.
    Has to be one of the coils in the coil pack, you have replaced half the car and thats about the only thing left.
    If its a stick(manual trans) you could have a broken spring in the fly wheel(duel masted fly wheel) or worn out flywheel.

    Also check to see that all your fan blades are on your cooling fan. One plade missing will act just like a dead missing cylinder.

    You could have a bad wire from coil to spark plug too. If they are coil over plugs(mounted on the spark plug) check the boots(wires) for any burns or holes.

    Sounds like you have replaced everything else.

    Should I Have the "Oil Place" clean my Fuel injectors? And Expensive Oil?

    I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero with 86,000 Miles on it. I just got an oil change and I saw on an add it the Valvoline place that you should have you fuel injectors cleaned after so many miles. Should I have this done next time I go to get my Oil Changed. And is it worth the money to have the 70 dollar oil put in it?Should I Have the %26quot;Oil Place%26quot; clean my Fuel injectors? And Expensive Oil?No.No.No. I used to work for a place like that and although synthetic oil is more expensive, not that much more. As for the injector flush, unless you use no-name brand fuel or buy it from a guy at the corner with a bucket, you will be fine. These places make money from %26quot;up-selling%26quot; not from diagnostic training so if there is a problem, go to a trusted mechanic.
    Should I Have the %26quot;Oil Place%26quot; clean my Fuel injectors? And Expensive Oil?
    depends on the oil. a lot of the %26quot;expensive%26quot; oil has detergents in it that will actually gunk up your motor worse. best oil on the market hands down is mobil 1 and if they carry that it's worth the money. as for the fuel injectors, I wouldn't recommend it unless your car is running a pretty rough at idle which I doubt it is. If anything get a bottle of fuel system cleaner for f.i. cars and put it in the gas tank at every fill up. I'm pretty sure lucas oil makes fuel treatment products now, I'd recommend that or something similar
    Should I Have the %26quot;Oil Place%26quot; clean my Fuel injectors? And Expensive Oil?
    No way you can buy castoral oil for $15 for a gallon and a filter for that car is about $5 most of your charge is labor and i wouldnt have fuel injectors cleaned with that low of miles and all they do is spray carb and choke cleaner in your throttle body and charge you outragoues prices!
    I wouldn't waste money for expensive oil on a car that old. Regular 15-20 dollar oil changes will be fine. I would consider a fuel injection service if you hadn't had it done within the last two years. There are two types, beware of one. One is a total joke, that is hooked up to your brake booster, and you run the car and its like an iv, that drips slowly into the system. The other is a 3m product which is great and you wont get that done for less than 120 bucks. This is where the fuel pump is disabled and the car runs off the cleaner, I'd go that route for 120 bucks.
    No, don't have the oil place clean the injectors. What they use may or may not work and is too expensive. Most fuels today have cleaners in them that keep the injectors clean. A tank full of premium now and then will do more for injectors than the oil place cleaning will do.

    As for the oil, using a synthetic oil is strictly up to you. If you use a synthetic, use a pure synthetic with extended life and a quality filter. Blends are a good oil but not extended life and will cost a fortune over time. The best synthetic I have found is Amsoil. With their filter, oil change is 15 to 25,000 miles and it improves fuel mileage. That's what I use. Oil changes are actually cheaper over a year.
    the fuel injector cleaner can help, but you can accomplish the same thing by using valvolines fuel system cleaner that you buy at the local autozone for $8 instead of whatever they were charging you. it's actually the same stuff, but goes directly in your gas tank.



    synthetics are good, but that price is outrageous, look elsewhere. synthetics CAN (but don't always) improve fuel economy and can extend engine life. in my experience with checking them against each other (dozens of changes, 7 cars, varied oils, exact records kept) there is definitely a hierarchy of synthetic oils.



    mobile 1 is actually about #6 in the hierarchy after

    castrol syntec,

    valvoline synthetic

    amsoil

    royal purple

    (castrol edge) i put this one in parenthesis as i haven't tested it personally. thus far in independent testing it has offered the best protection on the market, however the 4 balls tests and similar tests done in labs do not exactly simulate what happens in your motor and so mean little more than rat testing in labs. once i've tried it i'll get back on that one.



    castrol syntec also seems to have lost a little since castrol edge came out as though they wanted to show that edge was better and worth the higher price.



    my experience, reflected in each car we tested was that both amsoil and royal purple reflected their racing history. both produced dramatic results in the first 1000 miles, off the chart (engine relative) fuel economy and power, but after 1000 miles what they offered dropped off quickly and eventaully (4-6k miles) dropped below even quality conventional oils. in a race car that's fine since you change the oil every few hundred miles anyway. one minivan reported 33 mpg hwy at 1000 miles only to have it drop to 22 by 2000 miles on the exact same road, same load similar weather.



    valvoline used to rate more poorly, but recently upgraded their formula so i retested with good results.
    If someone is charging you $70 for oil then find a new place to deal with. That is ridiculous. I use only Mobile One in my Corvette and it is now about $6 per quart x 5 = $30 for the oil. As far as the injector cleaner go to a good parts store and buy a can you can pour right in the gas tank. Maybe $3.
    Waste of money on both items.

    Problems with Ford Contour Shutting Off?

    Mu husban and I recently bought a 1999 Ford Conour froma friend, now after reading the postings here I am sorry that we did. This car shuts off for no seemingly good reason. Driving fine, then just shuts off. A mechanic changed the fuel injector stuff or something like that, and it still shuts off. Afetr checking the previous owner, we gather that he also experienced that, it would drive fine for a few months, then just shut off one day. Please help! What could be the problem? I thought we were getting bargin for $1000 bucks with 84 thousand miles. Now it seems not.Problems with Ford Contour Shutting Off?$1000 for a 99 is a pretty good deal.



    forget vapor lock.. fuel pumps these days produce enough flow and pressure that they fuel never really gets a chance to expand anymore.



    Usually the 1999s were a better animal than the 95-97s.. but as was said, it's intermittant and why it's shutting down is a question for the ages...



    Usually when those cars shut down it sets codes and my guess is the mechanic changed the %26quot;fuel injector stuff%26quot; due to the codes



    They were known for the fuel pumps actually starving when hit in high accel causing a killing sometimes... The older ones were known for electrical problems with the engine wire insulation peeling off...



    But my guess with the year and such I would say that isn't the problem.. but what is shutting down.. don't know without discriptions and possible EEC trouble codes.



    Bring to a Ford dealer and spend the diag fee at least to find out what's messing up on the car. I find some independants have fits with these cars as It's a Ford/Ford of Europe/Mazda hybred of sorts
    Problems with Ford Contour Shutting Off?
    It sounds like vapor lock I had a car that did this

    It is when a fuel line sits close to the exhaust and when the exhaust gets hot the gas vaporizes before it gets to the engine



    I got rid of the car
    Problems with Ford Contour Shutting Off?
    $1000, and 84K miles...Does sound like a bargain.



    You did not say if the car would restart later or how long before it would restart.



    A intermittent problem is one of the most difficult to diagnose.



    It could be a fuel system problem, fuel pump brushes, vapor locking, fuel lines partially blocked, fuel filter.

    Or: an electrical fault, in the engine controls or ignition system.



    Give us some details.



    Yours: grumpy

    1991 acura integra fuel pump changed and distrubuter now I am not getting any fuel to my injectors?

    is the PGM-FI relay good? check it next1991 acura integra fuel pump changed and distrubuter now I am not getting any fuel to my injectors?Have you verified the pump is operational? Perhaps a clogged fuel filter? Is fuel not reaching the injectors or are the injectors not spraying? Are all electrical circuits connected?

    Why does the 40 amp. fuse for the ignition system blw out everytime I start my 2001 toyota p/u?

    I have changed the head gasket, 1 fuel injector, plugs and wires, rotor, %26amp; timing belt., and the 40amp. fuse under the hood blows out when I start the truck.Why does the 40 amp. fuse for the ignition system blw out everytime I start my 2001 toyota p/u?I agree with the other person who answered you. Somewhere, and vehicle electrical is a real b****, somewhere there is a short. I'd start with double checking any/all wiring that you stated you'd worked on already. Then, from there I'd go to starter/battery wiring/connections. Just , be patient, and keep checking wiring connections one by one. Take it one connection at a time, and be patient. As I stated, veh. elect. is a real pain. As long as you only tackle one connection route at a time, you won't get too overwhelmed, thus, frustrated. Good luck! And, as a last resort, consult a reputable mechanic that deals with vehicle electrics specifically.
    Why does the 40 amp. fuse for the ignition system blw out everytime I start my 2001 toyota p/u?
    Disconnect your alternator and try again.

    It may be bad, or wired up wrong.
    Why does the 40 amp. fuse for the ignition system blw out everytime I start my 2001 toyota p/u?
    You should go online to www.pbs.org and ask Click %26amp; Clack, the Tappert Brothers. They are on a show called %26quot;Car Talk%26quot;. You can find that in the shows listings. It will tell you how to get to their website and you can email them or wait til their show comes on and call in.
    you just left a short some were. i own 3 toyota ,if you would like to they are recalls on toyota,i got one this week and 2 last month on the head gasket and the frount in part...c if your truck has one.going on,,good luck
    Check the starter, solanoid, and for loose wires in that circuit. If you check the 40amp. is for the starter circuit. Start there, if it's the same after get it, with everything you've done into a good shop.
    There is a short in the ignition wiring circuit. It would help to know the model and engine size. Check all the wiring in that circuit and also the components. It's very possible that you have pinched a wire between something while putting it back together.

    rkb
    to pop a 40a fuse there must be a direct short to ground when tuning the key... hi amp draws such as fuel pump circuit is where i would start tracing
    You have a short somewhere in the wireing.
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  • Have a 97 chrysler concord that surges at around 60 km& again around 90 km.?

    I have had the fuel filter changed, added fuel injector cleaner and then had the computer reflashed. It is still doing this. At the same time i had trouble with the starter being slow to turn over. Not sure if the 2 are related or not.Have a 97 chrysler concord that surges at around 60 km%26amp; again around 90 km.?Sounds like maybe the torque converter in the transmission is on the way to the cleaners...



    My '98 Sebring did this sometimes and I was quite amazed at how much a transmission flush helped to alleviate the problem...



    My battery also just threw a cell - helped the hard starts a LOT too! :-)

    95 isuzu rodeo injector problem?

    I have a 1995 isuzu rodeo 3.2 engine.changed out the intake plenum gasket then put it all back together ,and now it wont start dont have any current to fuel injectors i can hear fuel pump turn on but no gas is getting to engine,and i have checked ground wires and they were all connected. just want to find out if anyone knows of a sollution?95 isuzu rodeo injector problem?THERE SHOULD BE A PRESSURE OUTLET NEAR THE FIREWALL THAT LOOKS KINDA LIKE A AIR PLUG FOR A TUBELESS TIRE(metal). THE PRESSURE MAY HAVE SOME HOW SEEPED LOW; UH-OH.Pressure has to be applied to the injectors to create the mist that burns in the chambers.Pick up a Manual from your Auto Parts Supplier it will have all the info on how to test the system.

    Do you need to change the fuel filter in an 2003 toyota corrolla?

    I heard it was a non serviceable part. I have never heard of that before. I have 107,000 miles on it. My friend did the spark plugs, air filter, rubber gasket kit about 10,000 miles ago. Last week it was getting a little sluggish at no consistent time, so I put fuel injector cleaner and it made a huge difference. I just want to make sure I can get the max power out of it. Is there other things or fluids I can put in it to do that. I just don't know what to measure it by because it does have many miles on it. I never drive on the interstate so I never really go past 60.Do you need to change the fuel filter in an 2003 toyota corrolla?It is a non serviceable part in the respect that you change it and throw the old one away.But yes it does need to be changed.
    Do you need to change the fuel filter in an 2003 toyota corrolla?
    Toyota makes great parts and good cars. Consider this, have you ever looked at a air filter and seen how dirty it can get? Now consider that fuel injector and it is spraying fuel under pressure through a very fine tip. Your filter prevents dirt and debris from plugging that tip, how many gallons of fuel do you think that filter has already cleaned? They only last so long and then it causes undue stress on the fuel pump to push the fuel through a dirty filter. Do your car a favor and change that filter before it plugs entirely and leaves you stranded.

    Daewoo matiz engine warning light?

    Daewoo Matiz Engine light?

    had bit of trouble with my car, wasn't running well and engine light come on, now i have changed fuel injectors and engine running great again, but engine warning light is still on, now i'm wondering if i just need to take it to have it reset, or if i still have an engine problem, warninglight was blinking b4 i changed injectors, but now it is constantly onDaewoo matiz engine warning light?You could try disconnecting the battery and leaving it off for a good few hours to reset it - works with most.
    Daewoo matiz engine warning light?
    My hubby has a daewoo lanos and the AA told him to disconnect the battery for at least 10 mins when the light came on as it resets the system.
    Daewoo matiz engine warning light?
    Yes as above, reset the battery and the engine light should go away if the problem has been rectified.
    My wife had the same thing in her Matiz, turned out to be a sensor, took about ten minutes to change at the dealer.

    My chevy s10 will start when the engine is cool, but why won't it start when the engine is warmed up?

    I have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, injector, spark plugs and spark plug wires, and oil filterMy chevy s10 will start when the engine is cool, but why won't it start when the engine is warmed up?Year and Model ???? Motor Size ?



    HEI ign ? Opti Spark....



    If it starts everytime when Cool or after sitting for over 6 to 8 hours ????

    BUT when warm or Afterrunning JUST SPINS over and over and over ???



    If HEI its Ign module most likely



    Read more here.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us803鈥?/a>



    IF problem keeps up read more here.

    http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm
    My chevy s10 will start when the engine is cool, but why won't it start when the engine is warmed up?
    I had this problem with my Oldsmobile several years ago. I had the fuel filter changed, fuel pump changes and still the same thing. The problem was in a wiring harness.
    My chevy s10 will start when the engine is cool, but why won't it start when the engine is warmed up?
    starter, that has happened to me before more than 1nce
    i use to have that problem years ago in my Chevy,the fuel line was to close to engine manifold and it would cause a vapor lock in the fuel line,i would put clothes pins on fuel line to insulate and absorb heat ,manufacture started insulating the fuel line next to engine manifold,and it stop the vapor locks,hope that helps.
    There are two main possibilities:

    1. if the starter is sluggish ( turns but slowly) then check the positive (usually red) wire that goes to the starter for damage, it may be frayed, partially melted and causing the current to the starter motor to be too low to turn it quickly. Another thing to check is the ground strap from the starter to the engine or body, this is usually a braded wire (unshielded) for the same as above.

    2. check to make sure there is a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the starter. If this is missing or mostly rusted away, there is a lot of heat (over 600 degrees) that the starter is exposed to and this may cause the starter to stop working until it cools down (they have a thermal overload protection built in to the starter motor).
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  • Need help fixing my 280ZX (fuel problem)

    Alright, here's the scope. I've asked before about my problem and alot of suggestions were to change the fuel pressure regulator. Here's the problem. The damn car burns rich and boggles. It's a 1979 Datsun 280ZX. So Far this is what ive done %26amp; changed: Plugs, Furl Pressure Regulator, hoses, EGR valve, Distributor, Injectors, Cap %26amp; Rotor, ECU, cold start injector, %26amp; fuel pump. The car still burns rich. I've done a timing light check and here what the results: the car is supposed to be at idle around 800 RPM @ 10 degrees Over TDC, the car runs a steady idle and RPM @ an estimated 35-40 Degrees over TDC. Also, when the vacuum hose that connects the valve cover gaskets to the intake is connected correctly, the car boggles, but when you disconnect it from the valve cover and leave it sucking free air, the car idles fine, but still has a boggle. It's drivable but when trying to open up, it boggles and sort of stress, and it eats up alot of gas. when i checked the plugs, all of them are carbenated at the spark. So what im asking is can anyone else tell me what the problem could be that i've missed or can anyone tell me what can i do to solve the problem? Someone suggested the timing might of slipped, but its a timing chain not belt, but can it still slip, and would that also be the problem for the boggling and fuel consumption? Please anyone; help me out. Thanx.Need help fixing my 280ZX (fuel problem)my guess is that your problem is in the inlet air cleaner,there is a vacuam operated damper in there that restricts the air when the engine is cold and opens as the engine heats up should have a vacuam hose connected to it..disconnect the hose from its source put it in your mouth and suck real hard if it don't open and close rip it apart oil it up and make it work if not replace it this little damper shuts the air supply down ..like driving with the choke closed
    Need help fixing my 280ZX (fuel problem)
    HI

    Sounds like everything is still out of wack.. or maybe there is a vacuum leak.

    RPM at idle should be 650 to 750 rpm's not 800.. and Your timing is way off... You said it should be 10* yet its at 35-40*.. is that with the vacuum line off and pluged?? Also make sure your fireing order is right.. and going the right direction on the cap. it would only take it being off one plug wire to thro the timing to 35*..

    timing is set with the vacuum line off and pluged going to the carb. I'd start dropping the timing and move the idle up to compansate.

    good luck

    Tim
    Need help fixing my 280ZX (fuel problem)
    Yes a timing chain can stretch. And something is wrong 'cause there's no way it would run @30deg. BTDC. Are you sure the O2 sensor isn't giving a bad reading.
    yeah ..you gotta %26quot;air%26quot; problem ...think about it ..air pressure is changing the way it runs

    make positive sure your egr valve is moving back and forth and that it works ...carbon build up can stop it from releasing internal pressures



    I think you have what is called a recirculating fuel system ...its basically a loop fuel feed system ..it is suppossed to maintain equal fuel pressure



    Take a vise grip and try clamping off or squeezing tight on some of the vacume lines and fuel lines while its running...it will start telling you a story

    those little solinoids can really mess things up ...you will find the problem

    Poor acceleration / Loss of acceleration (from standstill) and excessive fuel consumption.?

    We've checked, cleaned, and replaced (when needed) everything from the air intake filter, to the Mass Air-flow sensor, to the Oxygen sensor, cleaned the injectors, changed the fuel filter (fuel pump works fine), changed spark plugs and hi-tension wires... but still experience sluggish acceleration from standstill and terrible gas milage. I mean, either give me no power but great milage or bad milage but great power... but no power and poor milage is just terrible. The only thing we have not yet checked is the ECU, which controls the air/fuel mixture and timing of the engine. I can't imagine why these things would %26quot;lose%26quot; their programming or why these things would ever require any reprogramming to begin with. Any ideas anyone? Did we miss anything in our checklist? Thanks.Poor acceleration / Loss of acceleration (from standstill) and excessive fuel consumption.?You don't say what car this is, but Cam position sensor could be a culprit. I had this on a BMW the other day, I had disconnected the CPS to do some work, forgot to re-connect it and the car was awfull. Plugged it back in, and hey presto!
    Poor acceleration / Loss of acceleration (from standstill) and excessive fuel consumption.?
    You didn't mention if you have had the error codes read or not. It may be a problem with the ignition. The cylinder may be getting the fuel but no spark. Is the engine running smooth? You may be getting weak spark, or even a bad bunch of gasoline. Try filling the tank with a higher octane to see if that makes a difference.



    good luck.
    Poor acceleration / Loss of acceleration (from standstill) and excessive fuel consumption.?
    its got to be something thats blocking the air from getting into the engine. i wish i could be more helpful. my father had the same problem in his truck and it was the clogged injectors, but youve cleaned them. maybe take the intake right off and see if theres something jammed in there. its worth a shot. like you say, the ecu or some sensor or something malfunctioning is most likely. i think that a damaged o2 sensor might cause the poor mileage, but ive got no idea about the power. sorry
    take it in to the shop and let them put it on their machine to find out whats wrong with it instead of replacing parts that it doesn't need, it will be much cheaper in the long run.

    I think i have a fuel delivery problem but do not know chev blazer,2001, 4.3 l vortec?

    for the past 2 years my car has gotten harder and harder to start and now will not start. for the first five years my car started immediately. 2 years ago it started to take two tries to start it. 1 year ago it started to take 3 tries and very specifically just bumping the starter quickly three times, the third time it fires right up. finally now it will not start at all, bumping it every 4th or 5th time it gives a weak attempt to run but nothing. have changed the fuel filter a few times, new battery, cleaned the fuel injectors., new spark plugs, no change at all whatsoeverI think i have a fuel delivery problem but do not know chev blazer,2001, 4.3 l vortec?If the engine rotates but, won't start it can be quite a a few different things.

    It can be:

    fuel tank empty

    fault in the fuel injection system

    battery discharged ( engine rotates slowly )

    battery connections loose or corroded

    faulty fuel pump

    excessive moisture on, or damage to ignition components

    worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs

    broken, loose or disconnected wire at the distributor

    distributor cap wet,cracked or carbon tracked

    ignition coil bad

    and last but, not least and the most expensive problem...

    engine mechanical failure.

    Lots of things to check here, good luck.
    I think i have a fuel delivery problem but do not know chev blazer,2001, 4.3 l vortec?
    well, as a blazer owner, the fuel pumps are infamous for going bad. However, since you said its gotten harder and harder, I would suggest checking your power wire going from the battery to the starter. Does it turn over when you crank it, or does it just give a little clunk? If that wire is corroded, it will not give the starter enough power to get your engine to crank over. If its manual, try pop starting it.

    My 2004 F150 4.6L V8 has a low idle and idle will surge, and it will also stall out when stopped?

    I cleaned the k%26amp;n air filter, changed the oil, added fuel injector cleaner to the gas, but my truck is still stalling out when I am stopped. It seems the idle is way to low, like hovering around 200 rpms. What could be effecting it?My 2004 F150 4.6L V8 has a low idle and idle will surge, and it will also stall out when stopped?I worked in Ford Engineering designing Mass Air Flow (maf) Meters.



    All the time we would get MAF back from k%26amp;n cars. When you oil those filters up oil gets suck in to the clean air. This oil gets on the MAF hot wires and causes a rich/lean condition.



    Spray off your MAF hot wires with brake cleaner. Start with that. DO NOT try to scrub the wires with any brushes or things A good spray with BRAKE CLEANER only. MAF cleaner is the same stuff, but a smaller can and more expensive.



    Brake and MAF cleaner is laquer thinner in a can.



    Try this you have nothing to loose.



    Oh yeah - The maf is the electronic module right after the air cleaner before the throttle body. You will see some wires connected to your clean air tube thats the MAF. If you remove the MAF from the clean air tube and look at the part that hangs down into the tube, you will see some small silver wires with a glass bead in the middle. These wires are small and fragile. There should be no oil., grease, spiders, bees wings, or paper on them.





    If that doens't work there is an Idle Air Control (IAC) that lets air past the throttle plate. That might be messing up or be blocked.
    My 2004 F150 4.6L V8 has a low idle and idle will surge, and it will also stall out when stopped?
    Sounds like a problem with fuel or air supply. Might want to check your air filter install, make sure you didn't change anything or block anything. Not saying you would have, but best to start where you've been messing with first.

    If that checks out, have you changed your fuel filter? Sometimes a clogged filter can cause fuel supply to be cut off. If changing that out has no effect then the fun really begins. You may have to bring it to a shop to get it diagnosed, but it could be anything from a shot sensor to a dying fuel pump.

    TPS, IAC, MAF, and MAP are all related sensors, and there may be some others I don't know about. If you can, remove the IAC and TPS and clean them and the passages up a bit with carb cleaner if they're dirty. It could also be that the o-ring seals on your injectors are toast, repalce them if you can. Might also want to check the condition of your spark plugs and wires.

    That's all the cheaper fixes I can think of, because after that you get into replacing sensors or the fuel pump.

    Or maybe it's something else entirely, I'm not too experienced with trucks.
    My 2004 F150 4.6L V8 has a low idle and idle will surge, and it will also stall out when stopped?
    do u have a engine light on?

    What is the cause of 1995 V6 3.0 engine Nissan PU running rough & dying upon deacceleration for stop light?

    I have changed plugs, fuel filter %26amp; air cleaner. I am wondering if it is the Oxygen sensor. It seems to smooth out when accelerating. Would a bad or dirty fuel injector cause something like this?What is the cause of 1995 V6 3.0 engine Nissan PU running rough %26amp; dying upon deacceleration for stop light?first off as you know you don't have carburetor,,,and as for the dieing problem,,yes an oxygen sensor will cause this what it does is tell the computer the car is running to rich,,so it starves it for gas,,this is what causes the problem,,as for driving it,,it will smooth out as long as your driving it,,because the sensor cools off some,,it works by temperature and when it goes bad it gives a high temp reading,,this may not be all that's causing it,,but i would certainly replace it first,,especially if it has not been replaced in a while,it cant hurt anything,,i own a repair shop,,and when i get one doing this,,and i scan it with the computer,,it usually is the oxygen sensor,,be care full putting the new one on,,they break pretty easy,,good luck with it,,maybe this will help you.
    What is the cause of 1995 V6 3.0 engine Nissan PU running rough %26amp; dying upon deacceleration for stop light?
    I doubt its your fuel injector i think its your idle try turning up your idle and see what that does for you!
    What is the cause of 1995 V6 3.0 engine Nissan PU running rough %26amp; dying upon deacceleration for stop light?
    could be carborator... dirty fuel injector might it to because at an idle it get rough and starts to die but when you press the gas it goes again so you're forcing the gas through. i had a car the wouldn't idle unless you held the gas pedel, had to have the carb rebuilt and changed out the fuel filters and it ran fine after
    i had same problem timing belt was replaced. it ran and performed real good.
    do you smell gas? could be oxygen sensor...could be idle control valve
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  • Monday 17 October 2011

    2000 GMC Pick up truck - 5.3 litre - Why does it skip? ?

    Have had injectors checked, the coils, fuel injectors, changed the fuel filter, and nothing helps. Any ideas on why this skips going up hills or when you step down hard on the gas - doesn't do it in city driving. Thanks for your quick answers.2000 GMC Pick up truck - 5.3 litre - Why does it skip? ?check out your distributor, it could be cracked. If not take it to a mechanic and see if they could look at it.
    2000 GMC Pick up truck - 5.3 litre - Why does it skip? ?
    No dizzy on that engine, if I recall. Good old coil on plug ignition.



    You need to perform further diagnosis like a compression check.

    What are some symptoms of VALVES STICKING on a 4 cylinder car?

    I have a car that sputters on idle and during low acceleration, then clears up somewhat when floored after it has warmed up. I have noted a bit of white smoke when this happens, and I have also noted that the car seems to use or leak water, although I can see NO TRACE of water in the motor oil!



    The car in question is a 2.2 liter Chrysler 4 cylinder engine in a 1986 LeBaron. I have changed the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cap and rotor, ran many containers of concentrated fuel injector cleaner as well, still this maddening sputter and rough idle.



    So, I'm starting to wonder if the valves are sticking. Car has 137K miles and did run well until recently. No loose wires or broken vaccum hoses to blame either. So, could it be the valves, or could it possibly be leaking water via a weak head gasket?What are some symptoms of VALVES STICKING on a 4 cylinder car?You have a blown head gasket, that is why the white smoke, antifreeze makes white smoke when it burns. Also this is why you are losing water. If the valves stick it would be hard starting, smoke blue, lack of power.........Try some bars-leak. This may improve the situation but probably only temporally.
    What are some symptoms of VALVES STICKING on a 4 cylinder car?
    if the valves were sticking on it you would hear a loud ticking noise on it or a loud clicking sound,you would also have a dead miss-fire in it,and it would loose power real bad,you can tell this by running a compression check on it this will tell you instantly if it has a bad valve or not,good luck with it.
    What are some symptoms of VALVES STICKING on a 4 cylinder car?
    2.2L's were very prone to head gasket failures, especially in cylinders 1 or 4. White smoke is antifreeze. Ocassionally, a headgasket can leak and not intermix oil and water.



    Most likely, you do have a headgasket leak. If you pull the spark plugs out after the engine is warm and steam rises from one of the cylinders, chances are that is the cylinder that is leaking.
    Are the valves sticking you ask?

    I would compression test the engine.

    Interesting that you said that when you accelerate the engine sputtered the sputtering noise vanishes....that could be a sticking choke on the carburetor...when the choke opens more and idle spped increses, the spark plugs are not fouling and burning better, thus a better idle.

    However, the water leak is most likely the head gasket...have a certified tech pressure test the coolant system..

    Dollars to cents that head gasket must be replaced...2.2 engines are famous for that.
    White smoke, usually antifreeze, does it smell sweet?



    Head Gasket if it does smell like that.